North Wind Lapland
First time in Ylläs?
Here’s what we’d tell a friend before their first trip: how to get here, which village to pick, what each season feels like and what to pack. From the local guides at North Wind Lapland, in Ylläsjärvi.
Ylläs is a fell area in Finnish Lapland, a little over 100 km north of the Arctic Circle, at the southern end of Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park. Most people know it for skiing. Stay a few days and you find the rest: two old villages, deep snowy forest, frozen lakes, reindeer wandering down the road and, on a clear night, the northern lights.
Life in Ylläs revolves around Yllästunturi, a 719-metre fell with a ski area on each side. At the foot of each side sits a village, and the two are about 15 km apart by road. Both villages sit at the southern gateway to Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park. They feel quite different, so it helps to know which one suits you.
Ylläsjärvi lies south of the fell, on the shore of Lake Ylläsjärvi, about 5 km from the slopes. It's a real village where people live all year round, with a grocery store, a few restaurants and cabins tucked into the forest. Evenings are calm, the frozen lake opens up a big sky, and there's very little artificial light around, which is exactly what you want when you're waiting for the aurora. It's also our home: our office is here, in the middle of the village, and many of our guides were born and raised here.
Äkäslompolo, north of the fell, is also a real village, but larger and busier. You'll find more shops, restaurants and bars. If you like having everything within walking distance and a bit of buzz in the evening, this side is for you.
A scenic road runs between the two villages along the side of the fell, and in winter the ski bus links them too.
Ylläs is easier to reach than most people expect. The nearest airport and the nearest railway station are both about half an hour's drive away.
Kittilä Airport is 35 km from Ylläsjärvi and 50 km from Äkäslompolo. In winter there are direct flights from several European countries, and connections via Helsinki all year round. From the airport you have three options:
The train turns the journey into part of the holiday. The night train leaves Helsinki in the evening and pulls into Kolari, Finland's northernmost railway station, the next morning, some 14 to 15 hours later. In winter it runs every night, in summer a few times a week. A connecting bus meets every train and takes you the last 35 km to Ylläsjärvi and Äkäslompolo, and you can buy the train and the bus together on VR's website. Sleeper cabins go fast at Christmas and in February, so book early.
From the south, follow the E8 to Kolari, then turn onto road 939 to Ylläsjärvi, or carry on 10 km and take road 940 to Äkäslompolo. From Rovaniemi, take road 79 to Kittilä and turn left onto road 80 towards Ylläsjärvi. It's about 165 km and a little over two hours. Keep an eye out for reindeer: they walk on the road as if it belonged to them, and they never hurry.
Long-distance buses to Ylläs are few, and most run only in high season. Check routes and buy tickets on Matkahuolto.
From November to early May, the Ylläs Ski Bus runs between Ylläsjärvi, the ski area and Äkäslompolo. You can buy a ticket on board or add the bus to your ski pass. The timetable is on yllas.fi. The rest of the year, a car or a pre-booked taxi is the easiest way to get from one village to the other.
Booked a tour with us? Then you don't need to think about any of this. We pick you up from your accommodation in the Ylläs area. Husky rides and the Northern Light Dinner have their own pickup arrangements, which are explained on their pages.
Ylläs changes completely from one season to the next. There's no wrong time to come, only different trips.
The snow settles in, the slopes open and the days shrink fast. For a couple of weeks around Christmas, the sun doesn't rise at all. Finns call this time kaamos. It isn't pitch dark, though. Around midday the sky glows blue and pink for a few hours, and the long nights give the northern lights plenty of time to appear.
These are the coldest months. Temperatures often sit between −10 and −25 °C and can fall below −30 °C on clear nights. The light comes back quickly, the snow is deep and powdery, and the forest is at its most striking, with every tree bent under a thick white coat. The February school holidays are busy, so plan ahead.
Long, bright days, plenty of snow and softer temperatures. On a sunny lunch break you can feel the sun on your face again, so pack sunglasses and sunscreen. The northern lights season runs until early April, and the slopes stay open until early May.
From late May to mid-July, the sun doesn't set. You can hike, cycle, paddle or fish in the middle of the night, the trails in the national park are open, and the fells turn green. In July, don't forget mosquito repellent.
Ruska is the Finnish word for autumn colours, and in Ylläs it's quite a show. Within a few days the fells turn red, orange and gold. Berries and mushrooms are everywhere, the nights are dark again and the first northern lights of the season come out.
One tip: in May, and from October to mid-November, many restaurants and services in Ylläs close for a break. If you're coming in those weeks, check opening hours before you plan your days.
The northern lights season in Ylläs runs from September to April. You need three things: darkness, a clear sky and some activity from the sun. You can plan for the first two. The third is up to nature.
Get away from streetlights, look up and towards the north, and give your eyes a few minutes to adjust. The open shore of Lake Ylläsjärvi is a good place to start. Nobody can promise you an aurora, but you can give yourself the best chance:
The trick is several layers, not one enormous jacket.
Good news if you're joining one of our tours: thermal clothing is included, with overalls or a jacket and trousers, boots, mittens and wool socks. Just bring your hat and your base layers. If you want to stay warm for the rest of your trip too, have a look at our winter clothing rental. You'll find more advice in our guide on what to wear in Lapland in winter.
In summer, pack a rain jacket, shoes that don't mind getting wet, and mosquito repellent.
Skiing comes first for many visitors, with slopes on both sides of the fell and around 300 km of cross-country tracks, many of them winding through the national park. Beyond skiing, here's what we do with our guests, always in small groups:
Coming for a week? Our winter week program shows how to spread the experiences over your stay. Visiting in the warmer months? Have a look at our summer experiences.
Ylläs isn't a big resort town, and that's part of its charm. Here's a selection in both villages. Many of them change their hours with the season, so check before you go and book a table for dinner in high season.
You can't leave Finland without a proper sauna, ideally followed by a roll in the snow or a dip through a hole in the ice. Bring a swimsuit and a towel.
Choose your village first. Ylläsjärvi suits travellers who want peace, a lake on the doorstep and dark skies, with the slopes a short drive or ski bus ride away. Äkäslompolo suits those who want more restaurants and shops within walking distance. Our accommodation page lists the places we recommend, most of them in Ylläsjärvi, close to our office.
Ylläs lies within Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park, one of the most visited national parks in Finland. It stays this beautiful because visitors look after it.
Still have questions? Ask us. We've lived and guided in Ylläs for many years and we're happy to help you plan your days. Email us at info@northwindlapland.com or send a WhatsApp message to +358 503 121 514.